Spectacular progress at Château Cambon La Pelouse
The vines of Château Cambon La Pelouse grow along the “river” the local name for the River Garonne, which becomes the Gironde outside Bordeaux going towards the Medoc. The soil here, mainly deposited during the Mindel glacial cycle 50 million years ago, is light and sandy with large pebbles.The wines made in this area do not correspond very much to the image of robust Medoc wines. They are in fact light and airy. The brokers who classified the wines in 1855 made no mistake: wines like La Lagune and Cantemerle, although they are Haut Médocs, were classed as Third and Fifth Growths respectively, and Giscours close by but inside the Margaux appellation was assigned to the rank of Third Growth.Nestling amongst these viticultural powerhouses, Château Cambon La Pelouse has benefitted for a long time from a shining reputation, thanks especially to Mr. de Cambon, who gave his name to the estate. In 1776, Château Cambon la Pelouse wines sold at the same price as those of Château Cantemerle. During the French Revolution, Mr. de Cambon’s chateau was confiscated. Without its owner, the estate went downhill and was not classified in 1855.Laid waste by the freezing temperatures in February 1956, the vineyard was partially converted to cereal cultivation and was only replanted with vines in 1975. Coming from the hyper- and supermarket trade, Annick and Jean-Pierre Marie bought the estate in 1996 and set out to return it to its former greatness. The Cabernet Franc vines (called Grosse Vidure in the 17th century), which require more clayey soils were finally grubbed out and replaced with Merlot, which accounts for 52% of the total and contributes a warm, friendly feel to the wines. Cabernet Sauvignon (or Petite Vidure) contributes tannic structure and refinement. One unique feature is the use of a 4% share of Petit Verdot, which is referred to as “fourth generation”, because it ripens so late, but grows very successfully in southern Medoc. It contributes strong colour to the wine, sparkling fruitiness and tannic structure.Over the last ten years, the efforts to restore the basics have begun to pay and Château Cambon La Pelouse has returned to the prestigious status it used to enjoy, especially since it is aged using the techniques of great wines. It is raised entirely in barrels, about half of which are renewed every year. Classified in 2003 as a “Cru Bourgeois Supérieur” the estate has brilliantly crossed all the hurdles of certification.Unfortunately, the 1855 classification is not likely to be revised any time soon, because Château Cambon La Pelouse has reached the quality level of a classed growth. However, even if all the hard work is not recognised in a revised classification, the advantage for consumers is that prices have remained very reasonableBERNARD BURTSCHY OUR FAVOURITEChâteau Cambon La Pelouse 2010Made in an excellent year, this wine is smooth and attractive and has great depth. It will easily keep for ten to fifteen years.Price: €13.90 from www.cdiscount.com